Just across the River Ely from Cardiff, separated by barely three miles but feeling like a different world entirely, sits Penarth – the town that politely insists it’s not Cardiff while being inexorably linked to the Welsh capital.
Often called “The Garden by the Sea,” Penarth is where Victorian elegance meets contemporary cool, where Cardiff’s well-heeled escape for Sunday strolls, and where you’ll find one of South Wales most underrated stretches of coastline. As a travel blogger who’s visited hundreds of seaside towns globally, I can tell you that Penarth has a particular blend of heritage charm and modern amenities which is increasingly rare.
Why Penarth?
Let’s be honest: Penarth doesn’t shout for attention. It doesn’t have Barry’s nostalgia factor or Cardiff’s capital-city buzz. What it does have is understated sophistication, beautifully preserved Victorian and Edwardian architecture, an award-winning pier, excellent independent shops and restaurants, and a genuine community feel that many gentrified towns have lost.
It’s where you come when you want the seaside without the kiss-me-quick hats, culture without the crowds, and charm without the cheese.
Getting There
From Cardiff City Centre This is brilliantly easy. Trains run from Cardiff Central or Cardiff Queen Street to Penarth station every 20-30 minutes, taking just 10-12 minutes. It costs around £3-4 for a single ticket, making it one of the best-value day trips imaginable. The train crosses the River Ely and offers glimpses of Cardiff Bay before arriving in Penarth. Cardiff
By Car A 10-15 minute drive from Cardiff via the A4160 or through Penarth Marina if you’re coming from Cardiff Bay. Parking is available along the seafront (pay and display, around £4-8 for the day) and in town car parks.
By Bus Regular bus services (routes 93, 94, 95) connect Cardiff and Penarth for around £2-3, taking 20-30 minutes depending on stops.
The Scenic Route: Cardiff Bay Barrage Walk Here’s my favourite approach: walk or cycle across the Cardiff Bay Barrage from Cardiff Bay to Penarth. It’s about 2.5 miles, takes 45 minutes on foot, and offers spectacular views across the bay, the Bristol Channel, and both cities. The barrage itself is an engineering marvel that created Cardiff Bay by damming the Taff and Ely rivers. It’s flat, well-maintained, and free. Arrive in Penarth feeling virtuously exercised and ready for lunch. Why Cardiff Bay is a must visit destination
Penarth Pier: The Crown Jewel
Let’s start with the headline act. Penarth Pier, opened in 1894, is one of Wales’ finest Victorian piers and a masterclass in seaside elegance. Unlike many British piers that have succumbed to tacky amusements or structural decay, Penarth’s has been beautifully restored.
What Makes It Special:
- Grade II* listed Victorian ironwork and pavilion
- Stretches 640 feet into the Bristol Channel
- The ornate pavilion at the end houses a café, gallery space, and function rooms
- Stunning views across to Somerset, Devon, and the islands of Flat Holm and Steep Holm
- Regular art exhibitions and cultural events
- That indefinable magic of being suspended over water with waves below and sky above
Walk the pier at sunset with a coffee from the pavilion café, and you’ll understand why Penarth residents are so protective of this treasure. Entry is free, making it accessible to everyone.
The Esplanade and Promenade
Victorian town planners really understood the assignment when they designed Penarth’s seafront. The Esplanade runs along the clifftop above the beach, lined with impressive Victorian villas, Italian gardens, and shelters where you can sit and watch the world (and the Severn Estuary) go by.
The promenade below connects the pier to Penarth Marina, offering level walking with the beach on one side and colourful beach huts on the other. It’s immaculately maintained, wheelchair-accessible, and perfect for that classic British seaside stroll.
Don’t Miss:
- The Alexandra Park bandstand and Italian gardens
- The Victorian shelters along the Esplanade, perfect for picnics with a view
- The beach huts (some available for hire if you fancy a day at the beach in style)
Penarth Beach and Marina
The Beach Penarth Beach is shingle rather than sand, which won’t thrill sandcastle enthusiasts but does mean it’s cleaner and less crowded than sandy beaches. At low tide, rock pools appear that are brilliant for kids and adults who’ve retained their sense of wonder. The water quality is good, and there’s something pleasantly retro about a proper British shingle beach.
The beach stretches around to Penarth Marina, and you can walk the entire seafront from pier to marina in about 20 minutes.
Penarth Marina Developed more recently than the Victorian town centre, the marina has introduced a contemporary dimension to Penarth. Hundreds of yachts bob in the water, waterfront apartments overlook the boats, and there’s a relaxed, almost Mediterranean atmosphere on sunny days.
The marina has several restaurants and cafés it’s where you’ll find Penarth is more cosmopolitan dining scene. It’s also where you can join the barrage walk to Cardiff Bay.
The Town Centre: Independent Spirit
Here’s where Penarth really distinguishes itself from nearby competitors. The town centre, particularly along Windsor Road and Glebe Street, is thriving with independent shops, cafés, restaurants, and galleries. There’s barely a chain in sight.
Shopping:
- Griffin Gallery – contemporary art from Welsh and international artists
- Lime Tree Designs – homeware and gifts
- Various antique shops and vintage stores
- Independent bookshops
- Deli and food shops showcasing Welsh produce
It feels like the high street that other towns lost decades ago – diverse, independent, and genuinely serving the local community rather than just tourists.
Culture and Activities
Turner House Gallery This council-run gallery showcases contemporary art, particularly Welsh artists, and hosts regular exhibitions, workshops, and events. It’s compact but curated with genuine care. Entry is free.
Penarth Pavilion The striking white Art Deco building near the seafront hosts theatre, comedy, music, and cinema. It’s an important cultural hub for South Wales and attracts quality acts.
Cosmeston Medieval Village and Lakes Country Park Just outside Penarth proper, this reconstructed 14th-century village is fascinating – living history done well, with costumed interpreters, period buildings, and animals. The surrounding country park offers walking trails, fishing lakes, and nature reserves. It’s free to explore the park; small charge for the village.
Walks:
- The Penarth to Sully coastal walk (about 4 miles one way) offers spectacular clifftop views
- The Heritage Coast Trail passes through
- Alexandra Park provides gentle walking with views
The Penarth Vibe: Who Lives Here?
Penarth has a reputation as Cardiff’s affluent suburb, and property prices reflect that. You’ll see professionals walking dogs, families enjoying the park, retirees on benches reading newspapers, and increasingly, young families attracted by good schools and quality of life.
There’s a gentle pace here that feels deliberately maintained. Shops close for lunch. People chat in queues. It’s unfashionably civilized.
The population skews older and wealthier, which brings advantages (well-maintained public spaces, thriving independent businesses) and potential drawbacks (less diversity, higher prices). It’s not trying to be edgy or cool – it’s comfortable being elegant and slightly conservative.
Practical Penarth
Best Time to Visit:
- Summer (June-August) for beach days and pier strolls
- May and September for pleasant weather without crowds
- Winter for dramatic coastal walks and cosy pub lunches
How Long to Stay: Penarth works perfectly as a half-day trip from Cardiff (spend morning/lunch in Penarth, afternoon in Cardiff or vice versa). A full day allows you to really relax into the pace. If you want a quiet base for exploring South Wales, Penarth has several good B&Bs and small hotels (£70-150 per night).
What to Bring:
- Walking shoes for the coastal paths
- Layers – seaside weather changes fast
- Camera – the pier and esplanade are photogenic
- Appetite – the food scene deserves your attention
Not Great For:
- Rowdy nights out (head to Cardiff for that)
- Sandy beach activities
- Budget travel (Penarth is pricier than Barry)
- Amusement park entertainment
Penarth vs. Barry: Which to Visit?
Since they’re both Cardiff’s seaside neighbours, comparison is inevitable:
Choose Barry if you want: Traditional seaside fun, amusement park, sandy beach, authenticity, lower prices
Choose Penarth if you want: Victorian elegance, independent shops, quality restaurants, gentler pace, cultural activities
Or, and hear me out, visit both. They’re only 6 miles apart, and they represent two completely different facets of the South Wales coast.
The Hidden Truth About Penarth
Here’s what took me by surprise: beneath the genteel exterior, Penarth has genuine warmth. Yes, it’s more polished. Yes, it’s obviously wealthier. But locals are friendly, the community spirit is real, and there’s pride without pretension.
The town could easily be smug about its success – good schools, thriving high street, beautiful seafront, proximity to Cardiff. Instead, there’s a quiet determination to preserve what makes Penarth special while allowing careful evolution.
It’s also genuinely beautiful. Those Victorian villas along the Esplanade, the sweep of the pier into the estuary, the Italian gardens catching evening light. Penarth understood seaside elegance long before Instagram made it marketable.
Why Visit Penarth?
Penarth won’t be for everyone. If you want bucket-and-spade beach holidays or lively nightlife, look elsewhere. But if you appreciate Victorian seaside architecture done right, independent shops over chains, quality over quantity, and that increasingly rare commodity a British town that’s genuinely thriving. Then Penarth rewards your attention.
It’s the sophisticated day trip from Cardiff, the alternative base for exploring South Wales, the place where you can walk a Victorian pier, eat Michelin-starred food, browse galleries, and stroll a dramatic coastline all within a few hours.
Come for the pier. Stay for the unexpected realisation that Penarth is quiet, elegant, slightly under-the-radar. Penarth might just be South Wales best kept secret.